Five things you must know about the closing of Paris Fashion Week

In the face of the outstanding performance of Milan this year, Paris really felt the pressure. At Milan Fashion Week, GUCCI and PRADA show off from the nostalgic theme and the super-era theme, respectively, and armed with romanticism and rationalism, showing the broader acceptance of Milan Fashion Week.

Paris Fashion Week has always played the role of a pyramid in the fashion industry with a blend of art pioneers and business elites. Under the strong threat of Milan, this time Paris is also very hard, in the name of many names that are deafening. On the basis of this, many young brands with great potential have also shown strong ambition. However, overall, this season's Paris has surprises and frustrations.

CHANEL 2016 spring and summer series conference

First, the black horse breaks out

One of the most vocal fresh brands on this year's Paris Fashion Week must have the name of VETEMENTS. This brand, which was founded less than a year ago, has become the most dazzling dark horse in this fashion week. Founder and designer Demna Gvasalia worked at WALTER VAN BEIRENDONCK, MAISON MARGIELA and LOUIS VUITTON before creating the brand. The beautiful resume has accumulated a lot of popularity for his "single flight".

Vetements Spring/Summer 2016 Collection

The cold humor of his work, which is quite similar to the founder of MAISON MARGIELA, Martin Margiela, has become an important supplement to the relatively scarce fashion style. Therefore, once the brand enters the public eye, it has aroused strong interest in the critics.

Vetements Spring/Summer 2016 Collection

Another incident that caught the attention of this young man took place at this Paris Fashion Week – Alexander Wang's departure led to the empty nest of BALENCIAGA's creative director, and Demna Gvasalia was finally appointed at the end of Paris Fashion Week. The new design leader for the brand. In addition to VETEMENTS, JACQUEMUS has also become the most promising young designer brand at Paris Fashion Week.

Balenciaga Spring/Summer 2016 Collection

Second, the big name is not satisfactory

CHANEL and LOUIS VUITTON have an advantage in the schedule of the release schedule. As the top two shows of Paris Fashion Week, the former looks at the show and the latter looks at the designer.

Prada 2016 Spring Summer Collection

CHANEL's "scenario drama" practice has been tried and tested. I don't care about how Karl Lagerfeld turned the Paris Grand Palace into an airport terminal. The actor and the media are very happy. After the theme of playgrounds, supermarkets, casinos and restaurants, the idea of ​​the airport is still quite bold.

CHANEL 2016 Spring Summer Collection

CHANEL 2016 Spring Summer Collection

The craft is still superb, representing CHANEL's immortal garment level, but the whole series is full of the creativity of Karl Lagerfeld's demise in fashion design, but he is a very good one. Fashion show planner.

CHANEL 2016 Spring Summer Collection

As for LOUIS VUITTON, designer Nicolas Ghesquière has been promoted by the media as a giant of the era. Since his tenure at BALENCIAGA, this kind of "genius" propaganda has been heard. After switching to LOUIS VUITTON, he brought Marc to the latter. Jacobs has a completely different style at the helm, and with the addition of geometrically tailored elements, LOUIS VUITTON has been rejuvenated in the past two seasons.

Unfortunately, this time the performance is a bit overwhelming, the designer also needs to convey the pioneering ideology of the electronic age, but the technique can not keep up with the idea, the technique is stretched, and LOUIS VUITTON is treated as a personal style test field.

PRADA 2016 Spring Summer Collection

Fortunately, as the last "closed week" MIU MIU, but as always, maintaining a high standard, Miuccia Prada is skilled in stylized and measured.

Miu Miu Spring/Summer 2016 Collection

Third, Haina Baichuan style diversity

Unlike the other three fashion weeks, Paris Fashion Week is extremely inclusive, while New York, London and Milan are more or less focused on creating a good atmosphere and platform for local brands. Paris is holding The completely open attitude, the "foreign monk good chanting" rule is also basically feasible here.

Valentino2016 Spring Summer Collection

The Italian medieval and classical aesthetics represented by VALENTINO are reflected here. ALEXANDER MCQUEEN also brings the British Victorian aesthetics here, but at the same time Paris also has COMME DES GARCONS, which looks like an unintelligible design. In the subversion of the routine to do a little out of the game.

Valentino2016 Spring Summer Collection

Fourth, the concept is not enough juggling to make up

RICK OWENS's conference this year divided the audience's voice into two kinds, one kind of applause and one kind of criticism. The model was struggling with another model with the same size, either carrying it or hanging it upside down on the shoulder and stepping out to show the clothes. It is not so much a fashion show, but rather a performance art performance with very low nutritional value.

RICK OWENS Spring Summer Collection

The performance of the works is lacking, and this attempt to cover up the inadequacy of the design itself with a heterogeneous performance form is obviously for the eyeball effect, but unfortunately the horse is upside down. Designers may be self-proclaimed artists, but this art based on fashion design is ultimately not very clever.

Five, heavy tops light down

Regarding fashion trends, Paris has sent a few very concentrated signals this time. One of the most notable things in common is that many brands have given their shirts full performance space when they show, but they don’t care much about the bottoms. Even the model came out wearing a pair of pants, not giving skirts and pants. This is an upgrade of the street style only this year. The practice of thick and thin will continue to shine in the coming year.

Anthony Vaccarello Spring/Summer 2016 Collection

In terms of materials, Paris tends to give more opportunities for metal and shaped materials. Most brands add silver elements to their works. Many brands such as LOEWE boldly use transparent plastics in their styling, childlike and fashion. A sense of future. Finally, the fashion week in Paris is still the most feminine, so it is inevitable that this time, light, thin and transparent fabric is one of the most important materials - the softness of women wearing is always wrong.

LOEWE 2016 Spring Summer Collection

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